Cigar Weekly

Introduction

Looking out over a sprawling complex of ancient temples, workrooms and houses, I can’t help but think back over the past year to what brought us to this place.

Early this year, my wife and I were chatting with friends about our summer vacation. In this group were people who had trekked to Everest Base Camp, had climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, and had crossed Europe with nothing but a backpack and a map. Needless to say, the conversation quickly turned to adventure. We tossed out several ideas: New Zealand? Nah, too expensive and too far for a week long vacation. Alaska? Too cold. Soon, the idea of South America came into the conversation, and we quickly began talking about one of the most famous archeological sites in South America, if not the world, Machu Picchu.

It was settled. We were headed to Machu Picchu. But how do we get there? How much does it cost? These and about a thousand other questions entered our heads before we sat down and really started to do our research.

Surprisingly, a trip to Peru could be done relatively inexpensively: approximately $1200 per traveler for airfare, the trek, and all of our food while on the trek. Pre and post-trek food and souvenirs were an additional cost. After extensive research into South American travel guides, we settled on SAS Travel. And after a few phone calls, we were scheduled to hike the Salkantay Trail from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, Peru. SAS did everything, from setting up lodging to coordinating transportation in-country, and I would highly recommend them if you’re considering a trip to Peru.

Getting There

The typical tourist headed to Machu Picchu flies from the U.S. to Lima, and then catches a connecting flight to Cusco. After making our way from Washington, D.C. via American Airlines, we flew on LAN Peru from Miami to Lima, and then from Lima to Cusco. (There are several flights a day from Lima to Cusco on very comfortable Boeing 737s.) The Lima to Cusco leg almost felt like catching a flight to Tulsa. When we landed and made our way to the terminal, the surrounding Andes, the altitude (and accompanying shortness of breath) really made us realize that we were embarking on a different kind of vacation.

After claiming our bags in the nearly open-air, concrete-floored terminal, we traversed our way through what must have been hundreds of taxi drivers soliciting business. Our group met a representative from SAS travel, who loaded all ten of us (and our backpacks) into a very small van, We then headed to our hotel. The Hotel Garcilaso is situated two blocks away from the Plaza De Armas, the main square of the city. The square is bordered on two sides by the city Cathedral and a chapel, Compañia de Jesus. Instantly we knew that this place was special.

Looking out into the Plaza De Armas.

Around Cusco

Cusco is the ancient seat of the Inca empire, and has been around since 1100 A. D. In 1533, the Spanish Conquistador Francisco Pizarro discovered the city, promptly invaded and launched a 35-year war against the Incas. Eventually, the Spanish won the war, and Cusco fell into their hands. They promptly razed all of the Inca temples and built churches and governmental buildings in their place. Today, Cusco is a large city, and the main square is at its heart. We spent two days exploring Cusco and the Sacred Valley before setting out on the Salkantay Trail. In addition to experiencing the Peruvian culture, seeing beautiful architecture and exploring small towns throughout the Sacred Valley (like Pisaq and Ollantaytambo), we used this time to acclimate to the altitude (11,500 feet).

Dave and his brother, Rob overlooking The Sacred Valley.

After two days of acclimating, we met our guide, Javier and our porters. They would be our guides on the trail for the next few days, and would be the people who hauled our tents and prepared our food; professionals who cross the Salkantay up to a hundred times per year. They laid out the rules of the trail and sent us back to the hotel to rest up for the journey ahead.

The Trek

At 6:00 the next morning, we boarded a bus for our trip to the trailhead at Cruzpata. Along the way, we quick-stopped for breakfast in a café/home in Mollepata, then made our way to the trailhead and off-loaded our packs. From the trailhead, we could see Salkantay Mountain in the distance. Abra Salkantay (or the Salkantay Pass), at nearly 15,000 feet, would be our goal for the morning of Day Two.

The group prepares to start the trek on the Salkantay Trail.

Day One included a 6-hour hike of approximately 15 km. We camped about midway through the Apacheta Pass (about 15,000 feet). Temperatures that night fell below freezing, and the next morning we were met by our porters with steaming hot coca tea. Coca tea has been said to stave off everything from altitude sickness to food poisoning (members of our team encountered both).

The morning of Day Two, we climbed the pass to “summit” the Abra Salkantay. The remainder of the day was spent on the descent to Camp at Rayan-nioc at 9,500 feet. As we continued our descent, the effects of altitude sickness began to disappear and spirits were raised as we looked forward to the amazing dinner prepared by our porters.

At the top, Dave and Brooke at Abra Salkantay.

Each night following dinner, members of the group sat around chatting, playing cards, and enjoying the cool night air. Most nights, we were asleep by 8:30 pm due to sheer exhaustion. Each morning we were met by the warm coca tea-like our daily venti coffee back home, we began to crave our tea in the morning.

Relaxing at the camp.

Along the trail, we stopped at a hot springs resort that was still under construction; luckily, the pools were open and for just two dollars we were able to relax our weary muscles in the hot springs. We spent the rest of the day hiking along the Urambamba River, and even had to make a crossing by zip-line to reach the end of our trail.

Crossing the Urambamba River-Look Ma, No Hands!

Finally, we made it to Aguas Calientes and stayed in a hostel. This would be our first shower and real bed in 4 days. We had our last meal with Javier and said goodbye to our porters. Though the next morning would be an early rise, we all decided to head out on the town, and stopped at a small bar in the village. Interestingly, they were playing American rock and roll and we actually were able to catch the first NFL game of the season: New Orleans vs. Indianapolis. We certainly found it humorous that we’d traveled all this way, fought altitude sickness and food poisoning, and suffered one broken foot just to watch a football game in a bar. After far too many Pisco Sours and bottles of Cusqueña beer, we made our way back to our hostel.

We Made It

The next morning, we woke up entirely too early to make it to the first bus up to Machu Picchu. We were in the first group on the site, and as day broke, we were awestruck by this mystical place.

At Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu is located 50 miles from Cusco, and was built around 1450, likely as the estate of Inca emperor Pachacuti, and primarily as a religious astronomical site. Nearly 100 years later, it was abandoned during the Spanish-Inca Wars. The Spanish never found this place, and it became known as the “Lost City of the Incas.” Machu Picchu was all but forgotten (except by locals) until “rediscovered” by American historian Hiram Bingham in 1911.

Today, Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the most popular tourist attraction in Peru, and generates a significant amount of revenue into the economy. Nearly 500,000 people will visit the site this year, and because of that, there are significant concerns regarding protection of this ancient site. UNESCO is considering placing Machu Picchu on its list of endangered World Heritage Sites, and the government of Peru is seriously considering limiting the number of people allowed on the site in a given time period. It has been named as one of the “New 7 Wonders of the World,” and sits alongside such locations as the Taj Mahal, the Colosseum and the Great Wall of China.

Machu Picchu.

Want to Do It Yourself?

Interested in backpacking to Machu Picchu? Here’s what you need to know:

1. You need to be in relatively good shape- The altitude and level of exertion will keep your heart rate up. Expect 6 hours or more per day of hiking with a 20+ lb backpack.
2. Equipment: A good backpack, trekking poles, canteen/water source, and a camera at minimum.
3. Packing: Depending on the season, you can expect temperature swings of up to 50 degrees, so a long sleeved base layer, cool layer, and an outer layer (sweater) are a must. It can start raining at any time, so pack rain gear as well. Finally, it should go without saying, but quality boots are a must.

What if I just want to see Machu Picchu?

Well, SAS Travel and several other travel outfitters have specific trips for you as well. You simply fly into Cusco as we did, stay for a few days in one of the many beautiful hotels, and catch a train out to Machu Picchu. The trip by train is about 3.5 hours and departs at 6A.M. Take this route and you’ll be back in Cusco by dinner. Or spend the night in Aguas Calientes and enjoy the market, the amazing restaurants, and the night life, and then catch the train back the next morning.

Conclusion

Though we were exhausted after several days on the trail at high altitude, we looked out at Machu Picchu and back at our trail with a sense of accomplishment. I have been to all-inclusive resorts, on cruises and on European tours, but this was by far the most amazing vacation I have ever taken. To have been immersed in the Peruvian culture and to have trekked through one of the world’s largest mountain ranges has reminded me that there is a greater world out there, and it is longing to be explored. This was a good choice for an introductory adventure tour: not too expensive, and not dangerous in the least. What’s next for our group? We’re not sure.

New Zealand? Maybe Alaska? Maybe?

Dave and Brooke at Machu Picchu

Dave Carpenter (DCarp) has been a member of CW for four years and, oddly enough, has been avidly smoking cigars for four years. He enjoys traveling and hiking with his wife of six years, Brooke.