Lifestyles
The Virtual Gourmand 12: Heavy Metal
A few weeks ago, a thread in Cigar Weekly's 'Close But No Cigar' forum raised the question as to whether or not receiving or purchasing a complete set of pots and pans was a good way to acquire the articles. I replied that while I had been given sets of pots and pans as gifts (and was only too glad to have them), I really preferred to acquire such cooking implements piecemeal instead. Why? Well, for several reasons. One reason is that no matter what set one buys, there are always going to be pots and pans from the set that never get used - and these are the ones that inevitably end up cluttering one's cupboards (cabinet space is an issue in every kitchen). Another reason is that no single line of pots and pans ever seems to be consistent in terms of quality. By this, I mean that one line might make really good saucepans but lousy skillets, and another line the opposite. By purchasing pieces individually, one has the opportunity to select the best and most affordable items. One also can look for economic options that buying a set would not allow for. As an example, the clearance pages at Amazon.com have helped me to assemble an impressive array of pots and pans at a fraction of their original cost.
The next question posed to me in the thread asked what I would consider to constitute an adequate set of pots and pans. It was at this point that our Editor-in-chief recommended I write an full article on the topic. And here it is.
You will notice (in the list below) that
I distinguish between stainless, cast-iron and non-stick varieties
of cookware. Each of these has their place in the kitchen. Just as
in the workshop, the kitchen has a lot of tools that, when
properly employed, permit one to do the job right. Pick the wrong piece though, and the results likely won't cut the mustard. For instance, you can't put non-stick
skillets in the oven to broil, not to mention that those wonderfully flavorful bits of
fond won't form on a non-stick surface. Non-stick surfaces are great
for many tasks, but you can't make a proper skillet steak (with its
delicious pan sauce) in one. Therefore, it's important to accept that you will need a variety of
kinds of pans to be able to properly prepare a wide range of
dishes. There's simply no way around this truth.
The other crucial factor you need to assess is the construction and weight of the pan you are thinking about buying. A heavier pan will better conduct and hold heat while cooking. Stainless is a great cooking surface, but it is a lousy conductor of heat. Aluminum is a great conductor of heat, but is easily pitted, oxidized and is difficult to keep clean. Your best pans will have a disc of aluminum sandwiched between two layers of other metal (usually stainless steel, but sometimes the bottom part of the sandwich can be copper - another excellent heat conductor). You want a good, heavy pot with an adequate handle - the longer the handle the better.
Notably absent from this discussion is enameled, cast-iron cookware. Arguably, this is really the best of both worlds, as it provides the heat conduction of cast iron as well as an easily-cleaned enamel coating. It's also frightfully expensive to buy, and even more expensive to ship. If you want to add some of these pieces to your arsenal, by all means do so. I function perfectly well in the kitchen without a single piece of this type of cookware.
I have included, with my recommendations, links to representative pans available at Amazon.com. I am not specifically endorsing these particular pans or the brand names they are sold under. Some of these represent great values while others (to me) seem outrageously priced. I have included these links only for the purpose of illustrating the types and styles of pots or pans under discussion.
Skillets:
Stockpots and Dutch Ovens:
I make and freeze a lot of stocks. Whether it's the leftover carcass of a roasted chicken or turkey, a pile of shrimp shells or a leftover ham bone, I always seems to have a pot of stock simmering on the back of my stove. Using stock instead of water in a recipe is a way to add tons of flavor to a dish with very little effort. I often take my cooled stock, freeze it in ice cube trays and then empty the stock cubes into a zipper bag to have quickly usable portions on hand. As such, my 20 qt. Stockpot with lid
gets a regular workout. What's more, this vessel doubles as a great deep-fryer when one adds a candy thermometer and some oil. If you aren't going to be making such large batches, you'll find that a couple of 12 qt Dutch ovens with lids are good investments. While they can still be used for making stock, they're also ideal for soups, stews and slow-cooked braises. For even smaller jobs, I recommend that you buy an 8 qt stockpot with lid. It is ideal for smaller tasks.
Pots and Pans:
This selection is highly personal. I use all of these pots and pans equally and often in the kitchen. Of course, you may not feel that it is as important to purchase all of the ones I recommend. That's OK. You might not cook as much or prepare as varied a menu as I do. Buy according to what you need. Nonetheless, I find that this lineup serves me well.
I keep two 1 qt. Saucepans with lids on hand - simple, versatile and easily stored. I also keep two 2 qt. Saucepans with lids in my cupboard. Why do I keep two of each of these on hand? - because it seems as though I always need two of them at the same time when I am cooking. For larger jobs, I would buy a 3.5 qt saucepan with lid . One of the selfish purchases I have added to my arsenal is a 1 qt. Saucier. A saucier is a saucepan with sloped sides that are rounded off on the bottom of the pan. The idea is to make it easier to make sauces that require whisking by eliminating the corners of the pan that the whisk can't reach. If you decide to buy one of these, be sure that you get one that can be used with a wire whisk. The nylon whisks I've used were next to worthless compared to a wire model.
CW Editor-at-large and Executive Chef Jason Clabaugh (BigO) hailed from New Orleans before Hurricane Katrina devastated the city, and has settled in a suburb of Atlanta. With the addition of a new baby to his family, he's refocused his energies on fatherhood and a new project bringing his famous mango-habanero salsa and unique barbecue sauces into commercial production.