Lifestyles
A Rich Pour - Column No. 18: Muskoka On My Mind
Doug Kuebler (jazznut)
Cigar Weekly Managing Editor
Monday July 27, 2009
One of the most significant blessings of my life, aside from meeting my beloved Peg, is the way I’ve been welcomed and embraced by her family. Hers is a huge family!
For quite a few years now, Peg and I have hit the road over the July 1st Canada Day holiday, and headed toward the Muskoka Lake region of southern Ontario to partake in the annual family get-together.
Initially, Peg harboured some misgivings as to how well I – that shy, quiet guy she knows I can be at times – might adjust to immersion in the deep end of her zany familial pool. But those worries evaporated the very first night we all gathered around the cottage dinner table. Apparently, craziness is contagious.
Life at the lakeside retreat resembles an oscillating continuum of frenzied activity and serenity, with food and drink providing constant accompaniment. If it weren’t for sheer fun-induced exhaustion, the kitchen would probably be open for business 24 hours a day. I’ve yet to figure out why I don’t gain several pounds each summer.
Did I mention drink? Everyone endeavours to practice a certain degree of restraint, with cap popping and uncorking of alcoholic beverages usually awaiting the official commencement of cocktail hour. Nevertheless, a little cheating still takes place here and there. I, for one, truly relish kicking back on the upper deck during the afternoon with a healthy pour of bourbon, rum or single malt, a good book and – even better – an aromatic Habanos in hand.
Periodically, I trade reading for writing, trying to capture in words the often fleeting taste elements of libation or cigar. Such moments represent treasured respites from the more hectic, uncontrolled nature of everyday existence. Time seems to expand magically even as the perceptual process focuses more precisely, and a profound sense of relaxation settles within me.
As for that aforementioned cocktail hour, its parameters do tend to be rather blurred, with the tail end of aperitif time flowing seamlessly into the serving of dinner. A cold beer, Collins, Daiquirí, Margarita or Mojito might be the order of the day. This year’s Canada Day festivities witnessed the christening of the Muskoka Maple, a delectable melding of Canadian whisky, lime sour mix, maple syrup and crushed ice, garnished with cranberries. Chilled white wine also makes a regular appearance on the deck from late afternoon to early evening.
Dinnertime sees the entire family congregate in eager anticipation of that evening’s feast. Thankfully, the quality of the food always matches the quantity. And with so many mouths to feed, that’s no mean feat! A dozen people around the table on a ‘quiet’ night, and double that number – or more – when circumstances and visiting friends permit.
A multitude of wine glasses and bottles also magically appears on the table at this time. After all, what would a gourmet feast be without the gift of the grape as partner? Grilled or fried fish cries out for a crisp and refreshing white, my personal preference being for not too alcoholic Riesling from the Niagara Peninsula or Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Pinot Gris from Alsace or a well balanced Viognier from wherever. But when a roast comes off the barbecue spit, nothing quite matches a red exhibiting concentrated berry fruit flavours and enough tannin to cut through the leanness and marbling of the meat. Australian or Okanagan, South American or South African, Iberian or Italian, Californian or French – it matters not as long as the quality sings forth from the glass.
Guaranteeing those necessarily copious amounts of wine requires a little foresight and effort. I routinely begin shopping for my donation to the communal stocks months in advance, striving to strike a balance between excellence of taste and reasonable cost. We’re not talking Buckingham Palace, after all. Still, I do like to feel that I’ve contributed to a heightened awareness of the finer aspects of wine over the years I’ve been coming to the cottage. And the fact that even the younger generation of the family seems to be developing a greater interest in appreciating wine heartens me.
As I sit here at my desk typing these words, I can’t help but smile. So many memories to treasure. And the promise of yet another fun-filled family escapade in Muskoka come July 2010!
I wonder what next summer’s bar and wine list will look like?
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MY GOOD VALUE 2007 VINTAGE WINE CELLAR PICKS OF THE MONTH:
Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile, 14.5%
Everything a New World red should be. Velvety tannins overlaid with bagfuls of ripe Cabernet berry fruit, sagely nuanced with oak. Drinks very well right now, but can stand a little time in the cellar too. Rich and satisfying. Bring on the steaks or rack of lamb! The 2007 Merlot, with its chocolate and spice nuances, also warrants your serious consideration.
Willm Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr, France, 12.5%
The overtly sweet fruit thrust is tempered by drier floral and mineral overtones as well as a quite firm acidic underpinning. Though approachable at the moment, this wine will undoubtedly improve over the next few years. Simply delicious with grilled shellfish or goat’s milk cheeses.
Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Pfalz Riesling Kabinett, Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Germany, 10%
A taut, off-dry offering that positively sings of that razor sharp balancing act between slowly ripened grape sugars and zingy acidity the best German Rieslings display. Think of pears and peaches macerating in a healthy dose of freshly squeezed lime juice, and you won’t be far off the mark. Think of broiled salmon fillets glazed with maple syrup and sesame oil, or of rainbow trout garnished with caramelized Vidalia onions, and you’ll be in gustatory nirvana.
And keep your eyes open for the myriad of other excellent 2007 white wines from Alsace and Germany that are now beginning to arrive on the shelves. What a stupendous vintage for these regions it is.
Until the next time, santé!
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Doug Kuebler (Jazznut) is an inveterate aficionado and collector
of wines and whiskies from around the world. Doug has organized
wine and food seminars, written extensively on wines and liquors,
and also gained something of a reputation for his detailed analyses
of cigars. His latest book set, The Tumbler's Guide to Single Malt
Scotch Whisky: Desk Reference and Field Guide, is available from Topeda Hill Publishing.