Cigar Weekly

A world away from the buzz of nearby Costa Brava, this Spanish city is rich in ancient charm and ghostly tales, says NICK ROWE

PERHAPS, if you were asked to name the richest city in Spain, you might guess at chic Madrid or suave Barcelona. But you would be wrong. Surprisingly, the biggest money settles in the lesser-known city of Girona, something that becomes understandable the moment you walk out of your hotel.

It's not simply the many discreet shops selling designer clothes and works of art, or even the excellent restaurants tucked away in quiet squares beneath understated signs, including what is said to be the finest restaurant in the entire region: El Celler de Can Roca.

What really conveys the city's wealth is the overwhelming sense of beautifully maintained, unruffled civic charm. This fine northeastern stronghold has been besieged 25 times in its 2,000-year history and conquered seven times. Within minutes, you understand why all those armies came. Who wouldn't want to live here?

It might not be as well-known as some Spanish hotspots, but at a time when the nation's star is rising, thanks to sporting triumphs on the football field and tennis court, that could be seen as something of an advantage.

It's easy to get to -- Ryanair flies to the local airport -- and the old town is a warren of tight, shadowed and arched streets and squares, which make this one of the most beautiful medieval centres in Europe.

EVEN IF you prefer to base yourself at one of the more mainstream destinations, such as the Costa Brava (just an hour's drive away) or Barcelona itself, 70 minutes by train, this city makes for a perfect day visit. It is an oasis of selfpossessed charm, filled with subtle interest.

Where to go first? The pleasing truth is that Girona is, above all, a manageable city. Barely 100,000 people live here, so it's certainly hard to get lost once you arrive.

In fact, the first thing I did after leaving my hotel was stroll from one end of the old town to the other, passing the bustling cafes and watching life on the river. It took about half an hour. Then, over the next couple of days, I set about it all over again -- this time, stopping to enjoy.

You could think of Girona's centre as a set of antiques cupped within centuries- old protecting walls that rise up from the river, curve onto the high ground, then return down to the waterline again in a gigantic loop.

These exquisite Roman fortifications have seen many military onslaughts, but are now wonder-fully restored, complete with lookout towers, and give fine views over rooftops and the surrounding hilly countryside.

In some cities, battlements such as these would be plastered with 'Keep Off!' signs, or at least would charge an entrance fee. But Girona's most fascinating walk is on the top of these towering defences, and it's free.

It took me half a morning to cover the kilometre-long stroll in stops and starts, but I could have spent much longer up there. Partly, I was fascinated by the extraordinary views, which helped me fix my bearings over vast distances.

But there were smaller scenes in close encounters on tight, excuse-me corners: a beautiful woman, leaning against a watchtower smoking a fine cigar, the smell of it scenting the air; an old man sunbathing on a towel on the cobbles.

When I felt too hot, stone stairs led down to secret little gardens. The following day, I picnicked in one of these oases, eating strong cheese in dappled sunlight and strange peace: no hoodies disturbing me, no parkbench gangs. Only the passing charm of the elegant bourgeoisie kept me company.

The finest treasure of Girona is its cathedral, built between the 11th and 18th centuries, ruling the city skyline like a cantankerous old prelate. The Romans worshipped in this area, and a Moorish mosque occupied the hilly site until 1038, when the cathedral was established.

Behind dark curtains in an almost lightless side-room, I viewed a 12th-century tapestry depicting the Creation, the most striking of its kind in Europe. An elderly German man, the only other tourist in the room, turned and shook his head and murmured, 'It is a privilege, yes?' I agreed.

MY CULTURE-feast continued, most strikingly at the nearby Museu D'Art (E2 -- £1.60), where five floors of exhibits included stunning paintings from the Olot School, landscape masters who flourished in the nearby town of Olot a century ago.

The rooms were cool, high and calm, and at the end, when I asked the ticket lady if she could suggest other places to visit, she was sweetly helpful -- if utterly incomprehensible. No matter. We smiled goodbye as I left; human contact as cheering as any view.

One morning, I strolled out of the centre to the vast, cool Parc de la Devesa, where on Saturday mornings, a group of young Catalonians told me, a huge market flourishes.

Walking back uphill to parkland behind the battlements, I came upon a strange shrine -- a cavelike monument commemorating the fact that here, on February 4, 1975, the footprint of a bleeding, sacred foot appeared in the mud.

This, too, is typical Girona: small, human details emerging from an atmospheric backdrop.

When I wanted to rest my legs, I headed for the river to stroll along the Placa Independencia, its edges crowded with packed cafes, to watch life through the bottom of a glass.

But the best drink of all was at a tiny bar called El Caf» in the Carrer dels Ciutadans, in the very centre of the old town: marble tables, solid wood bar, tiled floor, every man in the place puffing away like a tugboat over chatter and newspapers.

My red wine was heavy and dry, the street outside, an endless passing theatre. Glorious. No wonder the better-off Spaniards make this their home.

TRAVEL FACTS

THE Peninsular Hotel (00 34 972 20 38 00; novarahotels.com) has doubles from £85.

El Celler de Can Roca, Carretera de Taiala 40, 00 34 972 22 21 57. Ryanair (08712460000, ryanair.com) flies to Barcelona (Girona) from Stansted every day from £39 return including taxes and charges. For more information about the city, visit the Spanish Tourist office (020 7486 8077, spain.info)